How to Clean Blinds, Shutters and Outdoor Blinds in South Africa

Why clean blinds change a room

There is something about clean windows dressed in clean blinds that changes a room entirely. The light comes in cleaner. The colours look sharper. The whole house feels like you have just moved in again.

Brighter rooms. Dust on slats filters light before it reaches you. Clean blinds let the full spectrum through — the room feels warmer and more alive.

Longer life. Salt, grit and grease break down materials over time. Regular cleaning doubles the working life of your blinds — from around seven years neglected to fifteen well maintained.

Healthier air. Blinds trap allergens, pet dander and mould spores. A weekly wipe removes what you cannot see but your lungs notice.

Less effort. A five-minute weekly dust means you rarely need a deep clean. Neglect turns a small job into a weekend project.

Why cleaning blinds in South Africa is different

South Africa averages 8.5 hours of sunshine a day. That is more UV exposure than most of Europe sees in midsummer. Add coastal salt air along the Garden Route, humidity in KZN, Highveld dust storms, and mould-prone Cape winters — and your blinds work harder than blinds almost anywhere else in the world.

Salt corrodes metal hardware up to four times faster in coastal areas compared to inland. UV degrades fabrics and PVC unless regularly wiped and protected. Mould takes hold in humid rooms within weeks if not caught early.

There are no professional blind cleaning services in South Africa. No ultrasonic cleaning tanks. No one to call. Which means knowing how to do this yourself — properly — is the only way to protect what you have spent money on.

How to clean every type of blind

Different materials need different approaches. The wrong method can cause more damage than the dirt.

Roller blinds

Roller blinds are the most popular blind in South Africa and among the easiest to maintain. The key is never rolling a blind up wet — trapped moisture causes mould inside the roll within days.

Weekly: Extend the blind fully. Run a dry microfibre cloth from top to bottom. For sheer roller blinds, use the vacuum on low suction with a brush attachment.

Monthly or as needed: Mix a few drops of mild dish soap in warm water. Wring your cloth almost dry. Wipe in straight downward strokes. Rinse your cloth in clean water and go over the blind again. Leave fully extended until completely dry. Only then roll up.

Kitchen rollers: A 50/50 mix of white vinegar and warm water cuts through cooking residue without damaging the fabric. Wipe down once a fortnight if your blind hangs near the stove.

Venetian blinds — aluminium, aluwood and plaswood

Aluminium venetian blinds are one of the most satisfying blinds to clean because the results are immediate and visible.

Weekly: Close slats flat. Wipe each slat with a microfibre cloth or run a vacuum brush attachment across them. Flip direction and repeat. Takes less than five minutes per window.

Deep clean (every 3–6 months): For aluminium and plaswood venetians, fill your bath with warm water, add a squeeze of dish soap and half a cup of white vinegar. Lower the blind in, let it soak for about an hour, then gently sponge any stubborn spots. Rinse with the shower head. Hang over the bath rail or outside (not in direct sun) until fully dry. Never soak the headrail mechanism — prop it over the edge of the bath.

Anti-static tip: After cleaning, wipe slats with a dryer sheet. This leaves a light anti-static coating that repels dust and keeps them cleaner for longer.

Wooden and bamboo blinds

Real wood and bamboo react badly to water. Moisture causes warping, swelling and permanent discolouration.

Weekly: Dry microfibre cloth only. Close slats, wipe top to bottom. For bamboo, a feather duster works well between the woven strands.

Quarterly: Apply a wood-safe furniture polish or lemon oil to a cloth (never directly onto the slat) and wipe each slat. A wax-based polish applied every three to four months gives additional protection in humid coastal homes.

Spot cleaning: Dampen a cloth with a wood-safe cleaner. Wipe the spot. Immediately dry with a clean cloth. Never leave moisture sitting on wood or bamboo.

Honeycomb and cellular blinds

The pleated pockets that make honeycomb blinds so good at insulation also trap dust, insects and debris inside cells where you cannot see them.

Weekly to fortnightly: Vacuum with a soft brush attachment on the lowest suction setting. Work in horizontal strokes following the direction of the pleats. For bugs and crumbs trapped inside, hold a hairdryer on the cool setting near the cell openings to blow debris out gently.

Spot cleaning: Dip a clean white cloth in lukewarm water with a single drop of mild dish soap. Blot the mark — never rub. Then blot with a cloth dampened in plain water. Let it air dry completely.

Never: Submerge honeycomb blinds in water. The fabric loses its shape, metal components rust, and the adhesive binding cells together can weaken. Also avoid hot water, Woolite, commercial spot removers and dry cleaning solvents.

Vertical blinds

Vertical blinds are among the easiest to maintain because the smooth, flat vanes shed dust naturally.

Weekly: Close the vanes flat. Dust from top to bottom with a dry microfibre cloth or feather duster. Work one vane at a time to avoid tangling.

Deep clean: Vinyl vanes can be unclipped, laid flat in a bath of warm soapy water, wiped down, rinsed and rehung once dry. Fabric vanes should never be soaked. Vacuum with a brush attachment and spot clean with a barely damp cloth.

PVC shutters

PVC and composite shutters are the lowest-maintenance window covering you can install — and one of the reasons Custom Blinds recommends PVC shutters for coastal homes.

Weekly: Close the louvres flat. Wipe from top to bottom with a soft dry cloth. Open them the other way and repeat.

Monthly: Damp cloth with a mild soap solution. Wipe each louvre, the frame and the tilt rod. Check hinges and tilt mechanisms — if a louvre feels loose, the tension screw may need a quarter-turn clockwise.

Lubrication: Apply silicone-based spray to hinges and tilt rods every six months. Never use oil-based lubricant — it attracts dust.

Timber shutters

Timber shutters need more care than PVC, especially at the coast. Salt air penetrates joinery. Humidity swells wood. UV bleaches finishes.

Weekly: Dry microfibre cloth only. Never damp.

Monthly: Apply furniture polish or lemon oil to a cloth and wipe each louvre and the frame.

Touch-ups: Small scratches can be fixed with matching paint or wood filler. When UV fading becomes noticeable, timber shutters can be re-stained or repainted — a job worth doing every few years at the coast.

Cleaning schedule by blind type

Outdoor blind and awning care

Outdoor blinds take more punishment than any other window covering in your home. Wind, rain, UV, insects, braai smoke, pool chlorine and — on the Garden Route — relentless salt air.

PVC café blinds and drop-down blinds

Clear and tinted PVC blinds scratch easily when dirty. The trick is to always rinse first, then wash. Wiping a dusty PVC blind with a cloth grinds grit across the surface and leaves fine scratches.

Step 1 — Rinse: Hose down with cold water to remove loose dust, sand and salt. Use a standard garden hose, not a pressure washer.

Step 2 — Wash: Mix a pH-neutral soap in lukewarm water. Apply with a soft sponge in the shade. If the sun hits wet soap, it dries too fast and leaves streaks.

Step 3 — Rinse again: Hose off all soap residue with clean water.

Step 4 — Dry: Hand-dry with a chamois or microfibre cloth. Leave fully extended until completely dry before rolling. Rolling damp PVC traps moisture and creates mould spots within days.

Never use: Ammonia, bleach, methylated spirits or any solvent on clear PVC. These cloud the material permanently.

Mesh and screen blinds

Mesh outdoor blinds catch less wind but trap more fine dust in the weave. A soft-bristle brush helps dislodge dust. Follow with soapy water and a thorough rinse.

Awning fabric

Retractable awnings should be fully extended and brushed with a soft broom before any wet cleaning. Wash with warm water and mild soap. Rinse thoroughly and leave fully extended until bone dry. Retracting a damp awning is the single fastest way to grow mould.

Hardware maintenance

Your outdoor blind is only as good as its hardware. Tracks, guides, zips, pulleys, ropes and fastenings all need attention.

Inspect all fastenings every season. Tighten loose screws. Replace anything showing corrosion — white chalky deposits on metal are the early warning sign.

Check ropes and cords for fraying. Replace before they snap, not after.

Lubricate zips, guide channels and tracks with silicone-based spray after every deep clean. Never petroleum-based products.

Test motorised systems by running the blind fully up and fully down. Listen for grinding or hesitation.

The Garden Route cleaning protocol

If you live anywhere between Mossel Bay and Storms River, your blinds face conditions that inland homes simply do not. Salt air is corrosive, persistent and invisible. This is the protocol Custom Blinds recommends to every Knysna, Plettenberg Bay and George homeowner:

Weekly (non-negotiable at the coast): Rinse all outdoor blinds, awning hardware and shutter exteriors with fresh water from a garden hose. Three minutes. If your home is directly on the water, do this twice a week.

Monthly: Full soap wash of outdoor blinds. Wipe down indoor blinds near open windows — salt air travels further indoors than people realise, especially through sheer and light-filtering blinds.

Every season: Full hardware inspection. Every fastening, every zip, every track. Look for white chalky deposits (early corrosion), stiff mechanisms (salt in tracks) and discolouration (UV degradation). This seasonal check is the difference between blinds that last a decade and blinds that need replacing in five years.

After storms: Rinse outdoor blinds again even if you have already done your weekly rinse. Storm spray carries more concentrated salt than normal sea air.

Proactive coastal maintenance gives your blinds a lifespan of 10–15 years. Neglect in salt-air conditions often means replacement within 5–7 years.

Mould and mildew — catch it early

Mould is a fact of life in humid South African homes, particularly during Cape winters, in KZN, and in any coastal bathroom or laundry.

Early signs: Small dark spots, usually starting at the bottom of a blind or in corners where air circulation is poor. A musty smell near the window.

Removal: Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spray the affected area. Let it sit for ten minutes. Wipe with a clean cloth. For stubborn mould on vinyl or aluminium, a soft-bristle brush helps. Dry the area thoroughly.

Prevention: The best prevention is the weekly dusting habit. Mould needs dirt and moisture together. Remove the dirt and you remove half the equation. In high-humidity rooms, consider PVC shutters and aluminium blinds — both are mould-resistant.

When mould has stained permanently: If dark staining will not shift after repeated treatment, the mould has penetrated the fibres. The blind needs replacing. Choose a material better suited to the room’s moisture levels.

When to clean vs when to replace

Clean and keep

Dust and grime buildup on structurally sound blinds. Light mould on vinyl, aluminium or PVC that responds to vinegar treatment. Yellowing on white PVC shutters (usually surface grime). Stiff mechanisms caused by salt or dust in tracks. Minor scratches on PVC outdoor blinds. Faded fabric that still operates well.

Time to replace

Warped or swollen slats on wooden or bamboo blinds. Mould staining that has penetrated fabric fibres permanently. Corroded headrail or bracket hardware. Brittle PVC that cracks when handled (UV degradation beyond recovery). Frayed cords or broken tilt mechanisms where parts are no longer available. Outdoor blinds with torn seams or zips that no longer seal.